If you’ve ever asked yourself “How to stop hooking a golf ball?”, you’re not alone. Few things in golf are as frustrating as watching a perfect drive start straight down the fairway only to curve hard left (for right-handers) and disappear into the rough or worse, out of bounds. Hooks rob you of distance, control, and confidence.
The good news? A hook is not a mystery—it’s usually the result of just a few common swing faults or equipment issues. In this guide, we’ll break down exactly why you hook the golf ball and provide 10 practical fixes you can start using today. You’ll also learn:
- How to diagnose your hook in 5 minutes
- Drills to improve grip, swing path, and clubface control
- Equipment checks to ensure your clubs aren’t making the problem worse
- A 4-week practice plan to rebuild consistency
This guide is for golfers who consistently hook both drivers and irons and want simple drills, setup changes, and practice strategies to stop it for good.
What is a hook?
A hook is a shot that curves hard from right-to-left for a right-handed golfer (left-to-right for left-handers), usually spinning violently and ending well offline. A draw is a controlled, mild right-to-left shape you intentionally create; a hook is uncontrolled and generally unwanted.
Key differences:
- Draw: gentle, predictable curve used by skilled players.
- Hook: sharp, often powerful curve caused by the face and path combining in the wrong way.
Scooping is a different problem: it happens when you “lift” through the ball (raising head/hands early), producing thin, weak shots. Scooping can make a hook worse by reducing compression and increasing sidespin. We’ll cover how to stop scooping the golf ball later.
Common causes of a hook – diagnostic checklist (quick checks you can do now)
Below are the most frequent reasons golfers hook. Read each short cause and try the diagnostic check to confirm if it’s your problem.
1. Strong / rotated grip
Why it causes a hook: A very strong grip (too many knuckles visible on the lead hand) naturally rotates the clubface closed through impact.
Quick check: Look at your lead hand at address. If you see three or four knuckles on your top hand, weaken the grip a touch — rotate hands slightly toward the target and re-test.
2. Closed clubface at impact
Why it causes a hook: A clubface that’s closed at impact sends the ball left regardless of path.
Quick check: Film a down-the-line video and pause on impact. If the face points left of your intended line, the face angle is the likely culprit.
3. Inside-out swing path + overactive hands
Why it causes a hook: An extreme inside-out path combined with an aggressive hand release adds severe right-to-left curvature.
Quick check: Use alignment sticks or look at divot direction; divots pointing right of the target line often indicate an inside-out path.
4. Early release / flipping wrists through impact
Why it causes a hook: Releasing wrist hinge too soon flattens the clubface and adds closing rotation.
Quick check: Practice slow swings and watch whether your wrists straighten before the clubhead reaches the ball — if they do, early release is present.
5. Poor weight transfer / too much rotation (early extension)
Why it causes a hook: Staying on the back foot or spinning the chest through impact lets the hands and club close the face.
Quick check: See if you finish unbalanced or leaning back; a proper weight shift should end with most weight on the lead foot.
6. Equipment issues: shaft flex, lie angle, clubface torque
Why it causes a hook: A shaft that’s too flexible or a too-flat lie can increase closing and inside release tendencies.
Quick check: Try another club or a demo from a fitter. If the flight changes significantly, equipment may be at least partly responsible.
7. Ball/tee position and alignment mistakes
Why it causes a hook: Ball too far forward/incorrect aim can change attack angle and encourage closure.
Quick check: Move the ball slightly back for a few swings; if curves reduce, ball position could be a contributing factor.
How to diagnose your hook — 5-minute tests (fast, reliable checks)
Spend five minutes doing these tests before you pick drills. They’ll tell you which of the fixes below will give the biggest return.
1. Video test
Record two angles: down-the-line (to see swing path) and face-on (to see rotation & weight transfer). Slow the clip to the impact frame. Is the face closed? Is the path steeply inside-out? That tells you where to focus.
2. Impact tape or spray
Apply impact tape or spray to the clubface and hit 6–10 shots. Marked left-of-center marks combined with left curve == closed face. Heel or toe marks show path or contact issues.
3. Gate drill
Place two alignment sticks slightly wider than your clubhead, just ahead of the ball. If you miss the outside stick consistently, your swing path is likely too inside-out.
4. Towel/impact-bag feel
Place a towel under your armpits and make short swings, or use an impact bag for controlled strikes. If your wrists flip or the towel falls out, you’re releasing early.
5. When to get a pro or fitter
If tests point to mixed causes (face & path both severely wrong) or you don’t see improvement after 2–4 weeks of drills, schedule a brief lesson or a club fitting session. Bring your video and impact notes.
Read also more related topics: How Many Dimples are in a Golf Ball?
How Long Does It Take For The Ball to Drop?
And, How Long Does a Golf Ball Last?
How Fast Does a Golf Ball Travel?
10 Ways to fix your frustrating hook once — why each works, coaching cues, and drills
This is the core. You can start with the top 3 that match your diagnostics. For most golfers, grip + face awareness + release control solve the majority of hooks.
1) Weaken your grip (slightly)
Why it helps: A very strong grip encourages the clubface to rotate closed at impact.
Cue: Rotate both hands a touch toward the target — aim to show 2 knuckles on your lead hand instead of 3–4.
Drill: In front of a mirror, set your grip and take 10 slow half-swings, focusing on returning the face square at impact.
2) Square the clubface at address & practice returning to it
Why it helps: The face often “tracks” from how it’s set at address; addressing square reduces pre-impact rotation.
Cue: Align the leading edge perpendicular to your target line. Visualize a square face through impact.
Drill: Place a short stick/tee across the face at address; do half-swings and stop at impact — the stick should appear level when you pause.
3) Shorten your swing and feel a neutral path
Why it helps: Big swings exaggerate inside path and early release. Smaller swings make it easier to control path and tempo.
Cue: Use ¾ swings; keep a smooth rhythm and a balanced finish.
Drill: Hit 50 balls with ¾ swings focusing on a smooth takeaway and a controlled path.
4) Stop the early release — keep lag longer
Why it helps: Holding the wrist hinge prevents flipping and premature face closure.
Cue: Feel the clubhead trail your hands on the downswing — “hold the angle until late.”
Drill: Impact bag or towel-under-armpits: make swings that compress the bag or keep towel connected; focus on delaying wrist unhinge.
5) Fix an extreme inside-out path toward neutral
Why it helps: A severe inside-out path plus a closed face produces the worst hooks. Bring the path closer to neutral.
Cue: Think of swinging slightly more down the line; avoid exaggerated inside sweep.
Drill: Alignment-stick gate: set a stick outside the ball a few inches; avoid hitting it — this encourages a less inside path.
6) Check & control rotation (avoid over-rotation through impact)
Why it helps: Spinning the upper body too fast can shut the face. Better sequencing (hips then chest) controls the face path.
Cue: Start downswing with the hips; let the chest follow. Hold posture through impact and finish balanced.
Drill: Slow-motion half-swings with emphasis on stepping to the lead foot and holding the finish for three counts.
7) Relax grip pressure & smooth the tempo
Why it helps: Tension leads to quick, jerky releases and overactive hands.
Cue: Grip at a light 2–3/10 pressure; breathe and swing with a steady rhythm.
Drill: Practice swings holding a coin between hands; if it drops, you’re too tense. Or count “one-two” on takeaway and downswing to set tempo.
8) Ball position & stance tweaks
Why it helps: Ball too far forward or incorrect stance width alters attack angle and timing, encouraging closure.
Cue: For irons, place the ball slightly back of center; for driver, ball forward but not excessively so. Check stance width for balance.
Drill: Move the ball back one position for 15 iron shots and observe curvature change; then return and compare.
9) Equipment check — shaft flex, lie & clubface condition
Why it helps: Clubs that don’t match your swing can magnify closure and hooks.
Cue: If swing fixes help but a stubborn hook remains, equipment may be involved.
Action: Try a stiffer shaft, a more upright lie, or demo alternative heads at a fitter. Bring launch monitor or impact tape data if possible.
10) Use aim temporarily — but fix the swing long term
Why it helps: Slight aim adjustments can reduce scoring damage while you train swing changes, but don’t rely on them forever.
Cue: Make small alignment tweaks (a few degrees), not large compensations. Use them only while you’re drilling.
Drill: Alignment-stick aim drill: place sticks showing your intended target and a temporary corrected aim; log results and remove aim once swing improves.
How to stop scooping the golf ball (fix scooping)
What is scooping? Scooping occurs when you lift your head, arms, or the club through impact to “help” the ball into the air. It causes thin or popped-up shots and reduces compression.
Common causes: Early release/flipping, lack of forward shaft lean at impact, weight staying on the back foot, or trying to lift the ball with the hands.
Fixes & drills:
- Hands ahead at impact: Practice placing a penny or tee an inch in front of the ball; aim to hit ball then penny — this forces forward shaft lean and compression.
- Impact bag: Use short swings to feel solid contact, not a scooped follow-through.
- Line drill: Draw a line (tape or string) behind the ball and place ball close to it; lifting early clips the line and punishes scooping.
- Visual cue: Keep eyes on the back of the ball until your lead wrist passes—only then lift.
Practice plan: 10–15 minutes of these drills per session for 2 weeks and you’ll notice stronger, more compressed contact and fewer hooks caused by early flipping.
Driver vs Irons — how fixes differ
The same face/path rules apply, but setup and attack angle change the details.
Driver specifics (wider stance, ball forward):
- Goal: Slightly later release and a shallower, sweeping attack while keeping the face square.
- Driver drills:
- Step-through driver drill: Swing and step front foot forward after impact to feel forward weight and a sweeping path.
- Tee-height check: Lower tee a bit to avoid overcompensating with an early, violent release.
Iron specifics (forward shaft lean, compress the ball):
- Goal: Maintain forward shaft lean and a slightly steeper, compressing angle into the ball.
- Iron drills:
- Penny/tee forward drill: Place a penny ahead of the ball and make strikes that hit ball then penny.
- Divot control drill: Hit half shots and focus on shallow divots beginning just after ball contact.
If your hook shows mainly with one club type, prioritize that club’s drills for 2–3 sessions a week.
Sample 4-week practice plan (3 sessions/week — progressive)
Measurable target: By the end of week 4, aim to hit 30 balls with an average curvature under 5° and reduce left misses substantially. Log shots and record one video at the start and end.
1st Week — Diagnosis & baseline
- Session 1: Video (down-the-line & face-on), impact tape, baseline notes (30–40 min).
- Session 2: Grip & face work (weaken grip, square-at-address drills) (30 min).
- Session 3: Impact bag + towel drills to feel lag and stop early release (30 min).
2nd Week — Path & release control
- Session 1: Alignment-stick gate work; reduce inside-out path (45 min).
- Session 2: ¾ swings and tempo work; practice holding lag (30–40 min).
- Session 3: Mixed clubs: focus on consistent shape and target orientation (40 min).
3rd Week — Club separation & on-course simulation
- Session 1: Driver focus — tee height, stance, step-through drill (45 min).
- Session 2: Iron focus — penny drill and divots (45 min).
- Session 3: Play 3 holes focusing on pre-shot routine and alignment, not score (on Golf Course).
Week 4 — Speed, consistency & test day
- Session 1: Full swings with metronome for tempo; record video (45 min).
- Session 2: Combine impact bag, gate, and driver rhythm (45 min).
- Session 3: Test day — 30 balls, measure curvature and dispersion; compare to baseline.
Logging: Note club, conditions, ball flight, and any notable feel or changes. If little improvement after week 4, revisit diagnostics or seek a short pro lesson.
Equipment & setup checklist
- Grip: neutral to slightly weak — check knuckle visibility.
- Clubface at address: visibly square to target.
- Ball position: mid for irons, slightly forward for driver (but not excessively).
- Shaft flex & lie: if only some clubs hook, consider a fitting.
- Ball type: high-spin, soft balls increase sidespin; try firmer balls for control.
Tip: Change only one equipment variable at a time and test over 30–50 swings.
When to call a coach or get fit
If you’ve followed the 4-week plan and the hook persists, book a 30–45 minute lesson or a fitting. A coach will analyze sequencing, timing, and feel-based issues. A fitter will test shaft flex, lie angle, and head characteristics. Bring: smartphone videos, impact tape results, and a list of when hooks occur (club types and conditions).
Common mistakes to avoid
- Over-correcting: swinging the pendulum to a weak grip or extreme fade.
- Relying on aim-only fixes: masking the problem instead of solving mechanics.
- Changing equipment first: replace clubs only after swing fixes.
- Trying too many changes at once: pick 1–2 drills and stick with them for multiple sessions.
Conclusion & quick checklist / printable
Hooks are fixable. Start by diagnosing whether your main issue is face angle, swing path, or early release. Then pick 1–3 drills from the top list (impact bag, alignment-stick gate, towel-under-armpits) and use the 4-week plan. Record progress and compare before/after clips. If you still struggle, get a short lesson or a fitting.
Quick printable checklist:
- Video baseline (2 angles)
- Check & weaken grip if strong
- Square face at address drill
- Do impact bag, gate, towel drills regularly
- 4-week plan: practice 3× week, log results
FAQ on hooking the golf ball
Why do I keep hooking my golf ball?
Most hooks come from a combination of a strong grip, a closed face at impact, an inside-out path, or an early wrist release. Video and impact checks will reveal which is dominant.
Can you fix a hook without changing clubs?
Yes. Most hooks respond well to grip changes, face control, path work, and release drills. Equipment changes are sometimes helpful but rarely the first fix.
How do I stop hooking with the driver?
Square the face at address, check tee height and stance, delay release slightly, and use driver-specific drills (step-through, alignment gate) to shallow the path.
Will changing grip stop my hook?
Weakening the grip often reduces hook tendencies, but combine grip changes with path and release control for lasting results.
What drills stop the early release?
Impact bag, towel-under-armpits, and lag maintenance drills help you hold the angle longer and prevent flipping.